SEOUL - With the South Korean currency, called the won, down against the dollar, now's the time to wander the grounds of 600-year-old palaces, meditate in Buddhist temples and trawl cafes and markets in the labyrinthine capital city, Seoul.
Getting around: Seoul, home to nearly a quarter of South Korea's people and one of the world's most densely populated cities, has eight subway lines, hundreds of buses covering every corner and affordable cabs.
From Incheon International Airport, city shuttle buses reach Seoul for about $7 (9,000 won). Korean Air offers a more comfy door-to-door service to major hotels for $10 (14,000 won). A taxi to the city center runs $38-$45 (50,000-60,000 won).
The subway is fast and cheap. Fares start at 70 cents (900 won). The $1.10 (1,500-won) T-Money Card also works on buses and in many cabs. When taking cabs, look for silver or white taxis, which start the meter at $1.50 (1,900 won). (A fare increase is slated for June). "Luxury" black cabs are more expensive.
Cheap stays: Staying in a traditional Korean house is the best way to live the history of Seoul. The narrow, winding alleyways of Bukchon, one of the last surviving old-style areas of the capital, is full of guesthouses built in the traditional, U-shaped "hanok" style with graceful, swooping eaves and intimate courtyards.
Anguk Culture House is a charming hanok near the Insadong antiques district. Book early; it only has five rooms, all with en suite bathrooms and Western-style beds. Twin rooms cost $53 (70,000 won) and doubles $60 (80,000), only slightly more than hostels. Other hanok options: Tea Guest House, singles $38 (50,000 won) and doubles $60 (80,000 won) or the Seoul Guesthouse with twin rooms, $38 (50,000 won) and a shaggy dog that according to Korean folklore will chase away evil spirits.
Or live like a Buddhist monk with a temple stay. The Bongeunsa and Hwagyesa temples offer 24-hour packages of activities including ceremonial services, meditation, tea ceremonies, communal work on temple grounds, arts and crafts and authentic Buddhist meals. Beware: Lights out at 9:30 p.m. and wake up calls come at a bracing 3:30 a.m. Prices are $23-38 (30,000-50,000 won). Reserve at least a week in advance.
For hostels, the modern Hongdae Guesthouse in the student district is also in the heart of Seoul's community of young designers, with a myriad of small cafes and an affordable Saturday art market. Dormitory beds are $16-$18 (21,000-24,000 won). In the city center, try Seoul Backpackers or its sister guesthouse, Banana Backpackers with doubles at $34-38 (45,000-50,000 won) and dormitory beds at $15 (20,000 won).
Jet-lagged on arrival? Nab a nap at one of Seoul's "jjimjilbang" bathhouses. After paying the entrance fee, you get your own loungewear and access to baths, saunas, therapy rooms and relaxation area where perfect strangers catnap side by side or in individual booths. Sauna areas are men/women only but relaxation areas are usually co-ed. "Jjimjilbang" are open 24 hours, but go during the week as they can get family-style noisy on weekends.
The Hurest Well Being Club Spa offers city views from its upper floors in the downtown Myeongdong shopping area; entrance fee $4.50-$7.50 (6,000-10,000 won). The Riverside Spa Land is popular, with a salt room, clay room, charcoal room and oxygen room. The Seoul Leisure Sports Club offers a swimming pool and golf range. The Korean Tourism Organization has an excellent introduction to the "jjimjilbang" experience.
Cheap eats: Eating cheap in Seoul means spice, rice and plenty of everything. Seoulites like to eat out, filling thousands of mom-and-pop places that give good local color and value.
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If you're new to Korean food, start at Lotte Department store's self-serve food court, where traditional dishes, from dolsot bibimbap (rice and vegetables cooked in stone bowls) to naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) are on mouthwatering display. Note the number of the dish you want, pay at the central ticket booth, and watch for your number on the digital display.
The alleyways of the antiques district of Insadong are packed with tourist-friendly restaurants featuring traditional fare for less than $6 (8,000 won) for a set meal of soondubu chigae (spicy tofu stew) with rice, bulgogi (marinated beef) or dduk mandu guk (dumplings and rice cake in beef broth), and side dishes, including Korea's most famous condiment, kimchi, fermented and pickled vegetables. Wash it down with traditional liquor, milky makgeolli or tart dongdongju.
Ssamziegil Market in Insadong has cheap, chic restaurants like the healthy Dubu Ma-eul, or "Tofu Village," and the elegant Oh Mok Theh for hearty seafood pancakes.
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